Accommodation
Beds in Jasper are not as expensive or elusive as in Banff, but still near unobtainable in late July and August. The Jasper Home Accommodation Association (w stayinjasper.com) has rooms in around 120 private homes, at $75–150 for a double – contact the visitor centre or check the website for availability. Most motels dot Connaught Drive on the eastern edge of town; prices drop sharply in the off-season. Often cheaper and more pleasant are cabins a few kilometres out of town. The four park-run campgrounds close to town and three local hostels all fill up promptly in summer, so bear in mind Icefields Parkway options. There are no accommodation or camping facilities at Maligne Lake, but two backcountry campgrounds ($14) on the lakeshore can be reached by canoe (get details from Jasper’s visitor centre).
Backcountry hiking in Jasper
Jasper’s system of backcountry hiking trails and 111 backcountry campgrounds makes it one of the leading areas for backcountry hiking in North America. To stay overnight in the backcountry, pick up a wilderness permit ($9.80) within 24 hours of your departure from the park information centre in Jasper or at the Columbia Icefield. All trails and campgrounds operate quota systems; contact the park information office for details and book yourself backcountry campgrounds – and thus trail places – as soon as you can (reservations $11.70). Trails remain busy even into September; the busiest are Skyline, Maligne Lake, Brazeau and Tonquin Valley.
The park information office offers invaluable advice, and excellent, cheap maps of several trails. For overnight hikes, talk to staff or get hold of a copy of The Canadian Rockies Trail Guide – but by general consent the finest long-distance trails are the Skyline (44km; 820m ascent) and Jonas Pass (19km; 555m ascent), the latter often combined with the Nigel and Poboktan passes (total 36km; 750m ascent) to make a truly outstanding walk. Not far behind come two hikes in the Tonquin Valley – Astoria River (19km; 445m ascent) and Maccarib Pass (21km; 730m ascent) – and the Fryat Valley (3–4 days). Others to consider are Maligne Pass and the long-distance North and South Boundary trails (the latter two both over 160km).
Drinking and nightlife
Jasper’s few down-to-earth bars are short on style but long on enthusiasm; but anyway, with many hostels and campgrounds far out of town, much of the fun is of the make-your-own variety. For other evening entertainment – which can include theatre, cinema, music or dance – consult the town guide available from the tourist office.
Jasper’s best hikes
The range of hiking trails in Jasper National Park is vast, and well beyond the scope of this book, but the best are below; there are also some great options along the Icefields Parkway.
Cavell Meadows
Easy day-hike featuring meadows, glaciers and waterfalls.
Maligne Canyon
Stroll alongside twisted cliffs and pounding waters.
Opal Hills
Moderate day-hike with splendid Maligne Lake views.
Skyline Trail
The classic multi-day backcountry hike.
Sulphur Skyline
Hard day-hike with glorious, craggy views and nearby hot springs.